On to Verona

We arrived in Verona.  The train's keep a tight schedule.  This is the 2nd time that we had our tickets checked just prior to leaving the train.  Our conductor was a little sloppy on traffic management.  There were people getting on and off at the same time.  I felt like a player blocking in an NFL game.

Our currency exchange teller in Venice told us his favorite city in Italy is Verona.  Venice was his number 2.  We arrived with elevated expectations and weren't disappointed.  While Venice is enchanting, Verona is vibrant with both locals and tourists.  It is truly a livable city.  The city has relics from both the Romans and Lombards.

Vic wants to come back for a second visit and we haven't yet been here a day.  The city seems to have everything except a self service laundry.  Hand washing, air dry;  when you are journeying, there are clothes to wash.

We are in a bed & breakfast, Casapiu Piazza Erbe. we are on the 4th floor, 66 steps, no elevator.  I would kill my travel agent, but I see him in the mirror.  The room is okay.  A/C and wifi work.  We are just a block from Piazza Erbe.  Vic is dying to shop, but we already have too much junk to lug while hiking Cinque Terre next week.

I took 4 missteps today.  My back and ankles are killing me.  Thank God I'm not a horse or Vic would probably put me down.

Till tomorrow:

Padova

Leaving Venice was tough.  When we paid the bill I knew it was time to go.  We walked to the train station.  We weren't far.  TrentItlia is great about posting the track where you catch the train to  a bulletin board, but until you know that you are in a race to catch the train.

It was only two stops to Padova.  It is a college town and famous for the cathedral of San Antonio.  Many pilgrims visit each year.  Now days by car or train.  It is also home to the 2nd largest theatre in Europe; Moscow is number 1.  Both the cathedral and theatre are spectacular.

We stayed on the 5th. Floor of the hotel Diamonte.  Eighty stairs and no elevator.  Otherwise the hotel is very nice and on the Piazza del Signore.  The piazza fills with vendors by day and bar/restaurant sitting at night.  We enjoyed watching the crowds from above.  The wifi is almost nonexistent, hence this late posting.

The public men's rooms are somewhat barbaric.  They install modern Turkish WC's.  I personally believe the Romans would be appalled by them.  I vowed to never use one for big business.  Once again, travelers shouldn't make promises they can't keep.

On to Verona:

Gondolas, pick-pockets, shady waiters, oh my

After breakfast, albeit late, we left to take a boat ride.  Our gondolier claimed to be 5th generation and one of the best in Venice.  Plus he even had a sign stating "Servicio Gondelire"  so he must have been official.  He sang a lot and was quick to point out landmarks.

The gondola has one oar, usually used on the right rear of the boat.  One oar on one side means paddling in a circle. To correct for this, it is designed with a listing to the right.  I was surprised he seated me on the right side of the gondola.  Okay, slightly panicked!  I was afraid my friend Wiederholt 's prediction of a swim was at hand.  But hey, he had a sign so he must know what he is doing!   He did.  He piloted the boat with great expertise, both on the Grand Canal and the narrow neighborhood canals.  He came within inches of moorings, boats, bridges, and walls; yet never a bump.  We were often photographed while on the gondola.  No wonder famous people hate free lancers.  It was actually a great experience.  Vic loved it!

Next we went shopping in the Rialto bridge area.  There were two men and a woman standing next to us as I was folding up the map.  Not lost, just unknowing of our whereabouts.  Another man walked up with a folded newspaper, raised it slightly, and greeted the folks next to us.   I saw one of the men casually reach into the newspaper and retrieve a wallet.  Aye carrumba, a pick-pocket crew!  No one shouted out they had been robbed and there were no cops anywhere to be seen.  I told Vic we needed to get moving while I still had my wallet in my pocket.

We stopped at a trattoria for lunch.  The home style food and vino del casa was quite good.  When our waiter brought us the check he informed us he had hand written in a 3 Euro charge on the computer generated check for us sitting outside.  He said normally it would be 6 Euros, but for us...a special deal!  What could we do?  We are special!

We returned to the hotel and spent the remainder of the day talking to other guests and people passing by on the other side of the canal.  We met several Danish people today and while on the Camino last year.  I am now convinced that Danes are the happiest and friendliest people in Europe.

We leave for Pedova tomorrow.  Till then:

Exploring Venice

Vicky awoke this morning as happy as a Kardashian with a new engagement ring.  Okay, it was a cheap shot!  Still she went to breakfast and was eager to go.  We spoke with our hotelier and he told us where to go.  Really!

We walked to Strata Nova and rode a quick gondola across Grand Canal to the fresh market, fish market, shops, more shops, and the most famous bridge in Venice.  I don't have a picture of the bridge since it was covered in scaffolding and ramps.  We boarded a water bus to travel the canal to San Marco.  The cruise ships were in, so tourists were everywhere. Not to mention some of the water taxis left a wake.

The church at San Marco was under renovation and partially eclipsed by scaffolding.  Argh!  San Marco was crowded and I at times felt a bit claustrophobic; reminiscent of Disneyworld in June.  Vicky was hungry, so we fled the many tourist venues.  We stopped at a small bistro and ate bruschetta something or other and drank a local red wine.  I know that isn't the exact Italian name of the dish, but they were both delicious and filling.  We walked east and shopped along the way.  We even saw a couple of leaning towers, take that Pisa!  No one in Venice can use the excuse that Mass isn't convenient because there are churches everywhere.

I misstepped and wrenched my back today trying to get a good picture.  I did the same thing in Spain last year.  iPads should have a safety warning for all of us klutzes in the world.  Dogs are commonplace here.  Just when we thought there were no cats in Venice, we saw two.  I even got a picture of one for my mom.

We took the water bus to Lido and returned on another water bus to F. Te Nuove.  We saw the hospital as we traveled.  The ambulances are high speed boats.  I never thought about it really, but it would be the only quick access to many areas.

We had a couple of showers today.  The locals say "love is in the rain."  Like opera it sounds better in Italian.  Till tomorrow:

Travel to Venice

After 32 hours we both crashed.  I slept 11 hours thanks to ambien.  We caught the train to Venice.  We do enjoy train rides.  I tried taking pictures on the train.  High speed rail + static focus  = a blur.  Sorry no train pics except for the one on arrival at Venice.

We bought a three day water bus pass and intend to use it.  Our first ride was to the S. Marcoula stop. We docked and set out on foot.  The map I drew is quite nice, but pretty worthless.  No problem!  Venice is small and you soon run into another canal.  We found the hotel Al Mascaron Ridente and are quite happy with our choice.  The hotel is on a canal.  I know, it' s Venice.

We had a snack of cicchettis (similar to a tapa or pincho) and wine.  They were good!  Venice seems to have a bar every 100 meters.  Diego, our hotelier recommended we try Restaurante Vesuvio.  It is more of a Napoli style pasta and pizzeria, but the food was very good.

We walked quite a bit after dinner.  I had us convinced that we could make a circle back to the hotel.  When I finally looked at the map I bought, I learned Venice had other plans.  We turned around and returned the way we came.  It was a nice stretch of the legs.  Plus, Vicky was able to covet items at the shops and street vendors.  We'll explore more tomorrow.

Travel to Milan

The flight to Milan was an hour late getting in to Milan due to takeoff delays at JFK.  Neither of us slept on the flight.  We made our way through immigration and began our quest for the train.  We along with other travelers had an adventure locating the station, we exited the airport too soon.   One thing we observed was that the locals and the train people at times seem to chastise each other.  It is actually somewhat funny to watch.

We proudly made our way to Milano Centralle station.  I'm not sure which was more challenging to locate: the M2 underground or a public restroom.  Under dire duress we stopped by the restrooms at McDonalds.  We then found the subway and a worker gave us a subway map, told us where to buy a ticket, and told us where to enter the subway.

With renewed confidence we entered the underground. We could go right or left.  As Murphy's Law predicts, we were on a subway heading in the wrong direction.  I quickly asked a young lady if this was the train to Loreto.  She confirmed that it was the right train in the wrong direction. I stepped out the door.  It closed quickly behind me!  Vicky was still on the train.  We both were a bit rattled.   To add to the comedy for the local riders, I yelled through the windows for her to get off at the next stop.    I hurled upon the next train and we were reunited at the next stop.  We too had to laugh at our mishap.

We made it to the hotel without further ordeal.  The room is a bit Spartan, but the A/C works great.  We tried a nap.  No luck!  So we went on 5 mile sightseeing trip.  Milan, at least where we are, is spotty.  Some areas are very nice, others not so much.  Graffiti is far too common.

 We noticed a local produce vendor and watched as the customers bought the items.  In the U.S., we hand select our produce.  In Italy, it is supposedly rude to choose which particular piece of fruit you want