Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Manarola - What the hike?

We awoke to wet laundry.  Vic and Jen decided to go to a small laundry down the street with a coin- op dryer.  On their return, Vic bumped into the leasing agent.  He told us the night before that checkout was between 10 & 12.  Now he says we should have been out at 10.  We hurriedly packed up and.left.

We walked to the train station to get our hiking passes.  The agent said the trails were closed due to weather and that we had to take the train to Manarola.  There were many other hikers forced to take the train.  Add to that the folks impacted by the strike and you had a panic when the train arrived.  The train was packed.  Many passengers were trying to exit the train.  Vic was quickly on the train.  Jen was a couple of people behind.  I was worried I might not make it.  The doors were closing and people were jerking them open.  I was being pushed into the people in front of me by the mob behind me.  No one wanted to miss the train.  After several attempts to closed the doors, the conductor relented.  We were all on board.

We exited at Manaorola and began our search for our room.  My mapquest map was worthless.  A local gave us directions to stairs and told us to go to the top.  We did.  On the way, we sent Jen out, or I should say up, for recon.  She located our street and yelled down.  I went up to get us in the room.  A great room with a kitchenette.  What a view!  It is still early, but Marola may be our favorite of the villages.









Monday, September 14, 2015

Strikers, Pikers, & Likers

We left Milano Centralle station ignorant about the rail strike.  People in our berth soon informed us.  We thought the train would proceed inland, but instead went to Genoa and on to Le  Spezia.  This meant we had great views of Portifino and the Italian Riviera.  Viva la strikers!

Then we arrived at Le Spezia.  We were to have a quick layover.  Then as train after train cancelled we knew we were victims of the strike.  Finally after two hours, a train stopping in Riomaggiore was at the station;  everyone pressed the train to get on.  For us, it was only a one stop ride.  We needed to get to our leasing agent by seven.  We arrived and departed the train.

We hurried through the tunnel and made our way up the hill.  Jen spotted the leasing office  and we popped in.  We were told we had to pay in Euros.  No way, my booking said we could charge VISA.  After stearn negotiations, the proprietor relented and allowed my credit card.  He had the swipe out of view the entire time and quickly processed it.  Score one for Curmudgeons.  The young couple from Finland went to an ATM to get cash.  Give a point to the Pikers.

Riomaggiore is the beginning of our Cinque Terre experience.  We had pizza for dinner and walked.  Vic and Jen took a lot of pictures.  Wifi is spotty again, but the gelato was homemade and good.  We went back to the room and Vic and Jen did some laundry.  We were on the fifth floor so we expected the wind to dry the clothes. Tired, we went to bed with thunder and lightening around, but no rain.






Saturday, September 12, 2015

Milan again - Jen arrives

We had an easy and fun ride back to Milan Airport.  We were supposed to catch the hotel shuttle bus to our hotel.  We soon found out the shuttle quits at 10:30 and doesn't  resume until 6pm.

 I called airport information and learned the airport has a shuttle btwween their two terminals.  Since our hotel is a 5 minute walk from one of the shuttle stops between the terminals, we went for it.   The agent told us to have the driver point in the general direction of the hotel since we wouldn't be able to see it.  Between my poor Italian and his much better English, we exited the shuttle headed in the general direction.  While walking we encountered a couple from Denmark; I love those Danes!  I asked if they knew where our hotel was?  They did!  They were staying at the hotel. We became fast friends.  They wanted to know how we were able to get there and we were ready to get to the hotel.

At the hotel, we soon learned why everyone was eager to learn of our free egress.  Most had taken an expensive taxi from the airport.  The hotel restaurant closed at 3pm and didn't reopen until 7pm.  Everything out here is closed. A closed bar and broken wifi!  The tourists were almost a rabble in the lobby.  Hence no posting on Friday.

After getting into our room, Vicky decided she was going to drink our last single wine serving and take a bath.   The princess had arrived.  I opted to retrace my steps to the airport for provisions.  The Danes wanted to go with me since they were hungry and the airport had open restaurants. They have an express store at the airport.  I scavenged and made my return.  At seven, we ended up grabbing a delicious pizza from a restaurant a block away.

We awoke and headed to the airport.  We met Jen at the gate and returned to the hotel.  Jen was up all night, but was ready for the sights.  We took a bus and subway to Piazza del Duomo.  The Cathedral is surrounded by shops with prices as huge as the Cathedral itself. We ate dinner, walked, and then tried the gelato.  It was as good as everyone says it is.

Cinque Terre commute tomorrow.  Till then:









Thursday, September 10, 2015

Verona at night

We decided to stroll.  We went Piazza del Erbe, Juliet's balcony, the river, and back to Piazza Viviani where we are staying.  It is hopping tonight!







Romans in Verona

We also visited some of the Roman sites in Verona, starting with the arena.  It was built in the 1st century, 50 years before the Colosseum..  Even after being plundered of its marble facade and used as a bomb shelter in WWII,  they had a concert there last night.  Talk about about your good, long-term civic investments.

We then trekked over to the Roman walls which were improved upon by the medieval times.  The old stone bridge became more fortified and they constructed Castlevecchio.  Of course, Napoleon's army captured it and during WWII, the retreating Germans blew some of it up.  Next to the castle is the Gavi Arch,  Napoleon's army destroyed it.  The locals built the relics back using as much of the original material as possible.

We crossed the river to tour thr the Roman theatre, which is also still used for modern performances.  Some of the purist tourists complained the should just be preserved in their natural state.  We were just impressed to visit them.
















Verona with Juliet

While Verona isn't that sure about the location of Romeo's house, they know this was one of the Houses of Capulette.  The balcony in the picture is thought to be that of Juliet.  The Capulettes were apparently old money and had connections.  The Montecchi (Montigues) were nouvo riche.  So goes the tale of woe.

Visitors can supposedly have luck in love by touching the breast of Juliet's statue.  We observed several of the visiting men taking liberties to humor the crowd.  I didn't partake.  Forty-three years with Vicky, I am not screwing that up now!

Many visitors also leave letters to Juliet; all of which are purportedly answered.

We also visited her tomb.  Since she allegedly committed suicide, she wasn't allowed to be buried within the city walls.  Many people have made a pilgrimage here to visit her tomb.  Besides us, notables include Charles Dickens and Lord Byron.  Just kidding about us.  The City of Ninbo, China made a donation of a statue in white marble of Liang Zhu and Cino.

Such a tragic tale!  Can't we all just get along?